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The return of Georgina Chapman

Marchesa, the brand signed by Georgina Chapman, Harvey Weinstein's alienated wife, seemed damned. Here's the comeback, starring Anna Wintour and Scarlett Johansson. Will it work?

Scarlett Johansson, in Marchesa, with Colin Jost on Monday at the Met Gala. Credit Damon Winter / The New York Times

So begins the rehabilitation of Marchesa, the fair or an unfair, damn red carpet brand that has fallen victim to the Harvey-Weinstein horror story: the Met Gala , a Vogue story and the support of American fashion style.

Marchesa, as you may remember, was the latter's tarred and feathered line, co-founded and co-founded by Georgina Chapman, the now estranged wife of Mr. Weinstein, who was at one point a red carpet. Seemingly loved by Renée Zellweger's women and Anne Hathaway, she became another symbol of Weinstein's abuse of power when stars suggested they were heavily armed. An example of how the producer manipulated the women in orbit to do what he wanted, whether in his hotel room or in his wife's clothes.

wife. Chapman announced that she would leave Mr. Weinstein and went down, but it did not seem to matter; Celebrities seemed to abandon the brand that vanished from premieres everywhere, as if it had never existed. A cooperation with the Helzberg Diamonds was discontinued. It has been reported that the employees are fleeing. Faster than one might say, "Bugle Bead" published stories last October asking how the Daily Beast put it: "Did Harvey Weinstein kill his wife's fashion label?" A February-New York Fashion Week show never came to fruition.

And then this week happened. On Monday, Scarlett Johansson wore a blood red Dégradé Marchesa dress on the red Met Gala rug, which was dotted with flowers, making it the first star that has since been blamed for refusing allegations against Mr. Weinstein. "I wore Marchesa because their clothes make women confident and beautiful, and it's a pleasure to support a brand created by two incredibly talented and important designers," the actress said in a statement for Entertainment Tonight.

Next Anna Wintour, Vogue Editor-in-Chief and Condé Nast's Artistic Director, said Wednesday Col. Stephen Colbert in his TV show, "I think it was a great gesture of support from Scarlett to wear such a dress – such a beautiful one Dress – On Such Public Opportunity. "

It is becoming increasingly clear that carefully organized public rehabilitation is underway. The fashion world is ready. But everyone else?

At a time when Charlie Rose and other men who had been overthrown by the wave of sexual harassment revolt had begun to plan their return to the public – mostly to disbelieving reception – Ms. Chapman, who Once seen as an enabler and now presented as another victim, is another type of test case.

"Well, everyone loves a comeback, and now the dust has settled," said Robert Burke, founder of the luxury consulting firm, bearing his name and former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman (who sold and resold Marchesa).

Indeed, fashion has a history of resuming the exiles after a time of reconciliation; See John Galliano, the former Artistic Director of Christian Dior, fired from the house after a drugged antisemitic tirade in a Parisian bar and now creative director of Maison Margiela. Not inadvertently, his return was also reinforced early by Ms. Wintour, who wore a 2014 Margiela gown of his design when she received a statuette for Outstanding Performance at British Fashion Awards. She believes in the salvation of talent.

Nevertheless, the editor is also involved in the scandals of sexual harassment, not only because of her previous friendship with Mr. Weinstein, but also because of her professional connection to the photographers Mario Testino, Bruce Weber and Patrick Demarchelier, all of whom have already been charged sexual misconduct and dropped by Condé Nast. It may be that she has her own interest in helping those who are guilty of their connection.

But Burke said, "It was smart for Georgina to start with the Met instead of the Oscars, because the Met is really an event for the fashion world, it's a kind of safe space for them."

He also pointed out, "Timing is good, this is a moment of solidarity with women, and Georgina has always positioned herself as part of this axis." Her was a rare woman-run business; and she and her co-founder, Keren Craig, were known for their fancy dresses that seemed to speak to fairy tales of women all over the world.

According to someone familiar with the situation, but not entitled, it was indeed Mrs. Johansson who was praised for her speech at the 2018 Women's March in Los Angeles, but also for being Woody Allen, In contrast to the brand that was approaching her, Chapman stood in front of the woman. Demonstrating Feminine Comradeship

Much of the social media response to Ms. Johansson's appearance was positive, in contrast to the mood last October that accused Chapman of being an accomplice (or intentionally ignorant) for the leverage that could provide her husband's job and power for the brand.

He also added, "Many, if not most, of our clients have not linked the dots between the designer and her marriage."

Now the question becomes, what happens next. Will Marchesa be on the red carpet of Cannes? Will Ms. Chapman appear at the CFDA Awards on June 4th?

"I hope so," Gurung said. "They do beautiful and unique work, and it was an important part of New York fashion, I definitely missed it."

And Mr. Kolb said, "Marchesa deserves a spot on the red carpet."

"Scarlett, who wears the dress at the Met hopefully starts taking the brand away from an unfair exile, "he added." It should have a voice and a place in our industry. "

Everything indicates that this is one could set the stage for a return of the Marchesa to New York Fashion Week in September, in which case the brand's time in the wild might actually have expired.

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